Thursday, January 31, 2019
3 TRENDS MAKING A COMEBACK IN SPRING ’19
Hello New Year, old me is it already time to lookout for the spring trends? Are we early to think about this? May be not! While there are many new trends appearing on the runway here are 3 trends that are recurring from the past. Yep, these are the trends that you hoarded back in […]
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Looking for a new bag this season? We’ve got a great pick
If there’s one thing storied Italian house Bottega Veneta has mastered, it’s the makings of a cult classic. Over the years, its Knot clutch has garnered a contingent of celebrity followers, including the Kardashian-Jenners, Oprah Winfrey, Salma Hayek, and closer to home, Priyanka Chopra. And now, the Italian label had added yet another name to its increasing collection of cult favourites—the Luna.
The crossbody bag is a part of Bottega Veneta’s cruise 2019 collection, and features the signature Knot closure. Striking the perfect balance between fashion and function, it gets our vote as one of this season’s must-haves—in fact, you can even consider it the LBD of your accessories closet. Style it with your crisp button-down, or a slew of pared-back basics to take it everywhere, from your regular 9-to-5 to beyond. Scroll ahead to take a closer look at Bottega Veneta’s latest offering.
Also read:
5 things to know about Dior’s iconic Saddle Bag
These are the rarest handbags in the world
How to take care of your prized luxury handbags
Meet the designers behind the latest crop of It bags
Potli bags vs clutch bags: which one will you choose?
The post Looking for a new bag this season? We’ve got a great pick appeared first on VOGUE India.
from Fashion – VOGUE India http://bit.ly/2UsSKxh
“I was the first martyr in fashion because I talked about race”
In 2015, Pyer Moss founder Kerby Jean-Raymond made a decision that almost destroyed his fledgling fashion label. In the wake of the death of two black men, Eric Garner and Michael Brown, at the hands of American law enforcement officers, thousands were marching on New York to protest against police racism and brutality. Jean-Raymond, who founded his brand in 2013 after stints working with Kay Unger and Marchesa, felt compelled to respond. So, with next to zero budget, he produced a short film addressing the ongoing crisis and screened it before his spring/summer 2016 show at New York Fashion Week.
Washington Post critic Robin Givhan, who appeared as an interview subject in the film, wrote an article about the project, propelling the little-known Pyer Moss (pronounced Pierre Moss) into the spotlight.
But the immediate, material impact on Jean-Raymond’s label was far from positive. His show venue pulled out. A European stockist dropped his line. And that was only the beginning.
“Within 36 hours, six of my biggest accounts dropped me,” he remembers. “The remaining ones were sub-$20,000 season accounts—not enough to keep our lights on. So I’m at this point where I’m about to lose my company, I’ve pissed off investors and I’m getting death threats from white supremacist groups.”
Race on the runway
The 12-minute film was built from a series of interviews with prominent black Americans, including Usher and the artist Kehinde Wiley, addressing the issue of racism in policing. It also featured conversations with family members of black men who had been killed by police officers, including Garner’s daughter, Emerald.
The clothes, his first foray into womenswear, were deafeningly quiet—casual tailoring, biker jackets, crisp fencing shirts, kimono-style coats and tracksuits in black, white, olive and grey; spray-painted live by the graffiti artist Gregory Siff and treated with a simulated blood-spatter effect, as though not to distract from what had preceded it.
Until this point, Jean-Raymond had largely refrained from political statements because he was “scared of the space”, ie, the fashion industry. “It was very Anglo, elitist, prejudiced,” he explains when Vogue Business meets him in his compact but meticulously organised studio in midtown Manhattan. “I didn’t feel like there was a place for me in fashion, so I never spoke up.”
Now Jean-Raymond was speaking up, and he was being admonished for it. “I was the first martyr in fashion because I talked about race,” he says.
On top of these struggles, he also became embroiled in a protracted legal battle. In early 2016, his investors wanted to pull out of the business and served Jean-Raymond with a lawsuit that accused him of a litany of transgressions including trademark infringement and unfair competition. Under the shadow of these new legal proceedings, which dragged on into 2017, Jean-Raymond became depressed. He had panic and anxiety attacks. Worst of all, he now had to deal with all of this in public. “People were recognising me now on the train—I was broke and famous, and it was really scary.”
Just when Jean-Raymond was about to walk away from it all, he received a call from Erykah Badu—a fan of the label—encouraging him to persevere. “Kerby is putting an important message out there,” the multi Grammy Award-winning artist told Vogue via a telephone call. “It doesn’t matter whether his clothes make you feel happy, angry, guilty or sad—whether you agree with what he’s saying or not—he is creating a movement beyond the world of fashion.”
Using money from personal orders (which included professional basketball players Dwyane Wade, Carmelo Anthony and Amar’e Stoudemire), he set a date for another show.
Fashion as a platform
Staged in February 2016, the collection addressed the weighty theme of mental health. Garments were printed with darkly satirical statements and emotive quotes like, “You don’t have any friends in LA” and “My demons won today I’m sorry”. The latter was the final Facebook post of Black Lives Matter activist MarShawn McCarrel, who’d committed suicide less than 10 days before.
Social commentary on the catwalk became Jean-Raymond’s signature. His Spring/Summer 2017 show made a touchpoint of money, linking white-collar criminals like Bernie Madoff to his own legal drama. Autumn/winter 2018 took inspiration from 19th-century African-American cowboys, and for his spring/summer 2019 show last September Jean-Raymond enlisted artist Derrick Adams to create 10 new works to be incorporated into the designs, presented entirely on men and women of colour. The show opened with a couture-quality dress, embellished with thousands of tiny caviar beads which came together to depict a black man tenderly cradling a baby.
“[The collection] focuses on the black family. What does it mean to be black? What does black normalcy look like? What does black mundane life look like?” he explains. “When black people are spoken about in the media it’s always in a really sensationalised way. Either you’re really extraordinary or you’re really bad and terrible—either way, you’re a statistic. I wanted to fill in the blanks.”
The show was warmly received and widely regarded as one of the highlights of New York Fashion Week. American Vogue fashion director Virginia Smith called it the “most memorable, goosebumps-inducing moment of the season”, while The Cut’s Cathy Horyn wrote that “Jean-Raymond’s gift is for responding to things right in front of him, and then making simple, wearable clothes with a spark of wit.”
Two months later, Jean-Raymond won the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund for emerging American design talent. CFDA CEO Steven Kolb tells Vogue that Pyer Moss stood out for the clarity of its vision and Jean-Raymond’s consistency in conveying a strong message. The label received recognition in the form of celebrity fans, too. Michelle Obama wore a suit from his AW18 collection in an appearance on The Tonight Show Starring Jimmy Fallon. From a critical perspective, Pyer Moss had reached new heights.
But critical acclaim does not necessarily equal commercial stability. As recently as the autumn/winter 2017 collection, Pyer Moss was still facing closure, so its founder sought a solution in the form of a corporate patron, striking an agreement with Reebok that offered Jean-Raymond a multi-year deal with complete creative control.
The new social consciousness
Jean-Raymond’s experience in the wake of his SS16 show is a case study in the dangers a small business faces when it becomes explicitly politically engaged. For a young, upscale fashion brand that drives neither high production nor sales volumes, margins are thin at the best of times. Any unexpected challenges can be cataclysmic. For Pyer Moss, they nearly meant closure.
The political climate has changed significantly, though, in the years since Jean-Raymond’s pivotal SS16 show. Brands are aligning more closely with their customers’ social and political views—often with financial benefits. Nike’s campaign with athlete and activist Colin Kaepernick added $6 billion to its market cap. Reebok’s decision to embrace Pyer Moss as a collaborator also speaks to this shift.
The Reebok money has enabled the designer to buy out his former partners and pay off his debts. And with $400,000 in prize money from the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund, Jean-Raymond is now focussed on building a sustainable business and will skip New York Fashion Week this February.
“I’ve got to be realistic—our cachet is still growing, there’s a lot of people who know the brand now, but how many of them are true customers?” he says. “If I’m going to expand the business, it has to be because the demand has exceeded the supply—it’s not there yet.”
First published on Voguebusiness.com
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Everything you need to know about Day 1 at Lakmé Fashion Week
Pass by Mumbai’s Jio Garden and you will see vibrant installations and flocks of people making their way into the enclosures, with signs outside discouraging people to enter the space without an invite—it’s official, the summer/resort 2019 edition of Lakmé Fashion Week is underway. After an unforgettable opening show by Gaurav Gupta, the season kicked off with the Gen Next show on Day 1. Here’s a look at the some of the highlights from fashion week.
Lakmé Fashion Week Day 1: Gen Next
An all-female graduating class of Gen Next designers for this season saw labels Ek Katha by Madhumita Nath, Ujjwala Bhadu, Birdwalk by Amrapali Singh and Sunaina Khera. Ujjwala Bhadu’s fresh use of colour, mix of appliqué, raffia and knits stood out among the rest.
Image: Sagar Ahuja/Vogue; Madhumita Nath for GenNext at Lakmé Fashion Week summer/resort 2019
Image: Sagar Ahuja/Vogue; Ujjwala Bhadu for GenNext at Lakmé Fashion Week summer/resort 2019
Image: Sagar Ahuja/Vogue; Amrapali Singh for GenNext at Lakmé Fashion Week summer/resort 2019
Image: Sagar Ahuja/Vogue; Sunaina Khera for GenNext at Lakmé Fashion Week summer/resort 2019
Lakmé Fashion Week Day 1: Sneha Arora
Sneha Arora’s collection ‘Breathe’ offered a fresh take on everyday basics. Maintaining a clean palette of blues greens and whites, the designer played with foliage prints, colour blocking and polka dots to create a summer-ready wardrobe.
Images: Sagar Ahuja/Vogue; Sneha Arora at Lakmé Fashion Week summer/resort 2019
Image: Sagar Ahuja/Vogue; Sneha Arora at Lakmé Fashion Week summer/resort 2019
Image: Sagar Ahuja/Vogue; Sneha Arora at Lakmé Fashion Week summer/resort 2019
Lakmé Fashion Week Day 1: Inspired by art
The Art meets Fashion presentation at Lakmé Fashion Week exhibited work by four emerging talents who incorporate art into their clothing. Labels Yavï by Yadvi Agarwal, Ajay Kumar, Helena Bajaj Larsen and Bobo Calcutta displayed their work in the Studio. Instead of choosing a runway format, the live installation here allowed viewers to take a closer look at the detail on the clothing.
Image: Sagar Ahuja/Vogue; Bobo Calcutta for Art Meets Fashion at Lakmé Fashion Week summer/resort 2019
Image: Sagar Ahuja/Vogue; Yavï at Lakmé Fashion Week summer/resort 2019
Image: Sagar Ahuja/Vogue; Ajay Kumar for Art Meets Fashion at Lakmé Fashion Week summer/resort 2019
Image: Sagar Ahuja/Vogue; Helena Bajaj Larsen for Art Meets Fashion at Lakmé Fashion Week summer/resort 2019
Lakmé Fashion Week Day 1: Varun Bahl
Varun Bahl debuted his ready-to-wear label Varun Bahl Prét—inspired by the simplified motif of a flower. Using lightweight silks, crepes and organza, the lineup comprised of drop waisted dresses, kurta salwars worn with light summer jackets and printed saris. While a large part of the collection seemed apt for the broiling Indian summers, one couldn’t help but wonder if the clothes needed a little more of the designer’s signature embroidery and lavish use of colour to truly be covetable.
Image: Sagar Ahuja/Vogue; Varun Bahl at Lakmé Fashion Week summer/resort 2019
Image: Sagar Ahuja/Vogue; Varun Bahl at Lakmé Fashion Week summer/resort 2019
Image: Sagar Ahuja/Vogue; Varun Bahl at Lakmé Fashion Week summer/resort 2019
Rohit Bal brought Day 1 to an end with a beautiful show. Ever dedicated to his homeland Kashmir, the designer recreated the scene of a floating flower market on the runway. Bal was a part of the mentorship program by Usha Silai Label, an endeavour by Usha International to train women in rural areas with employable skills, and worked with a cluster of women from Kashmir on this particular collection, which highlighted the use of machine embroidery and appliqué. Never compromising on aesthetics, the designer made clever use of digital prints and gold foil in his lineup ‘Gul-Dastah’. Bal took the bow with the women who helped craft his collection, eliciting a standing ovation.
Image: Sagar Ahuja/Vogue; Rohit Bal at Lakmé Fashion Week summer/resort 2019
Image: Sagar Ahuja/Vogue; Rohit Bal at Lakmé Fashion Week summer/resort 2019
Image: Sagar Ahuja/Vogue; Rohit Bal at Lakmé Fashion Week summer/resort 2019
Also read:
Tabu, Karan Johar walk for Gaurav Gupta’s showcase at Lakmé Fashion Week
Lakmé Fashion Week summer/resort 2019: What we’re looking forward to
Designer Gaurav Gupta will open Lakmé Fashion Week summer/resort 2019
Designer label Shantanu & Nikhil to close Lakmé Fashion Week 2019
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Wednesday, January 30, 2019
VEGANUARY – VEGAN BEAUTY PRODUCTS
Instagram is beaming with posts of #veganuary and we have finally caught on. We all know a plant based diet can do wonders for our health, while help us save our planet, one vegan burger at a time. Talk about win-win! This got us thinking, why not extend the same policies to our beauty products […]
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from Hautelist http://bit.ly/2HFsIFx
Tuesday, January 29, 2019
Condé Nast International launches Vogue Business
Introducing Vogue Business, a new digital-only B2B title offering analysis of the fashion, beauty and luxury industries. Rooted in facts and data, the Condé Nast International project—which began as a newsletter—will look at trends; the impact of broader global market dynamics, from climate change to geopolitics; cultural patterns and shifts that impact retail and vice versa; and how technological and scientific advancements shape the ways products are produced, marketed and sold.
“In a consolidating media landscape, the launch of a new global title is a rare thing,” says Wolfgang Blau, president of Condé Nast International. “No one else in the world employs more fashion journalists in more places than we do. Our global network of journalists, digital editors and researchers are immersed in the relevant trends on all inhabited continents, giving the team of Vogue Business access to an unparalleled depth of knowledge, from local design trends to changes in manufacturing, training, technology and distribution.”
Edited by Lauren Indvik, who will lead an independent editorial team in London, Vogue Business will operate as a wholly separate entity to Vogue, but tap into Condé Nast International’s network of brands, including Vogue, GQ, Glamour and Wired, as well as drawing on insights from 29 markets in order to fill the gap in the market for industry decision-makers.
“We take a new global, visual and data-driven approach to journalism,” adds Indvik. “Our journalism is designed for maximum impact and accessibility, making it easy to understand key ideas at a glance, and to enable fashion leaders to make the decisions that will grow and future-proof their businesses and careers.”
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4 Ways to Get Excited About Your Wardrobe Again
With a new season in full swing, it’s easy to feel like you literally don’t have anything to wear — even if you have a full closet of clothing right in front of you! It’s always tempting to just buy something new if you’ve been wearing the same pieces on repeat and can’t think of any other new ways to style them.
But I have good news for you: getting out of a fashion rut is easier than you think and can save you money in the long run. Because as much as I love shopping, sometimes it’s smart to evaluate what you already have before committing to something new. That way, everything in your closet is worn and loved, rather than stuffed into a corner, away from the light of day!
If you’re yearning to see your own wardrobe in a new light, try these tips on for size. You’ll fall back in love with your closet in no time.
from Girl With Curves http://bit.ly/2Bae3fU
Monday, January 28, 2019
How modest dressing found its way into mainstream fashion
If the short length of a hemline is not a barometer by which to judge a person’s character, then covering up should not equate to regressiveness either. If showing one’s skin is a choice that needs to be respected, then the opposite of that stands equally true. 2017 was the year we saw more crop tops, miniskirts and even the first hint of the return of the low rise, but it also brought another trend to the forefront: modesty. Stemming from the sartorial needs of women from various religions and faiths—and even just preferences—modest fashion gained recognition in the narrative of contemporary fashion.
Despite (often unjustly) being branded as transient, fashion is a reflection of society, and in the era of respecting individual choices, modest fashion has left the fringes of the lexicon of style and moved up, front and centre. One prominent sign of change was the acceptance of Halima Aden’s hijab on the runway. The poster girl for modest style, Aden was a part the Yeezy Season 5 show. “Halima Aden stood out amongst a diverse group of her model peers in a long faux fur coat and her own hijab (in 20 years of watching runway shows, that was a first),” Nicole Phelps, director, Vogue Runway, recounted in her review of the presentation. In the same year, The Modist, a luxury e-commerce destination dedicated to progressive modest dressing, came into being. Abayas, hijabs, headscarves were no longer exotic or foreign, and accepted as part of personal style.
International luxury retailers who have seen the rising opportunity in business have already started investing in this promising vertical too. Farfetch will be curating a selection of pieces from The Modist on its own portal, and Net-a-Porter has a selection of on-trend edit of clothes from luxury labels tagged under ‘modest’ as well.
Despite its origins as a way of dressing for women in Muslim countries, modest fashion has evolved into a global phenomenon now. Take for instance the work of Batsheva Hay, whose exaggerated conservative aesthetic has won critical approval with celebrities and fashion retailers. Hay, a follower of Orthodox Judaism, is dedicated to modernising elements of clothing that signify restraint and repression, and making them into something of an armour for those whose fashion choices are not just about following Instagram trends. Simply put, Hay is making modest fashion cool, and more about making a statement.
Of course, the concept of modest fashion does not restrict itself to items of clothing that have a religious significance. Now, even those who simply choose to cover up for the sake of own comfort can find a wider range of fashion to suit their preferences. Brands like The Row, Ganni and Etro naturally fall into this category, given their patterns and cuts that favour high necklines, longer hems and relaxed fits. Without trading faith for fashion or vice versa, modest dressing has found its own unique charm, exuding a quiet confidence. The impact of standing one’s ground has birthed a new dimension of style.
Intrigued with the concept? Look out for Vogue India’s February 2019 issue, which will talk about the impact of choice on modest fashion. Watch this space for more
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Sunday, January 27, 2019
Protected: Everything on how to style our favourite picks from this celeb-favourite label
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Saturday, January 26, 2019
Friday, January 25, 2019
5 NO FUSS TIPS TO GET THAT BRIDAL GLOW
Being a bride is not easy, you have a million things to plan and look into – party favors, guest-sitting, outfits, make-up, the list goes on and on. On top of it, while you are juggling through all these tasks, you also have to find the downtime to take care of your skin! This is […]
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Protected: Make way in your wardrobes for this London-based designer’s latest collection
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Protected: Michael Kors launches iconic runway watch as a new smartwatch
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The 9 biggest talking points from couture spring/summer 2019
Couture fashion week spring/summer 2019 was an emotionally charged affair. From Valentino’s moving presentation to Margiela’s sartorial comment on social media overload, this is your rundown of the biggest talking points from Paris.
#1: Givenchy’s bow backpack
Image: Getty
Get you a bag that can do both: Givenchy creative director Clare Waight Keller is on a roll, dressing the Duchess of Sussex and legions of streetwear aficionados worldwide, who will now be eager to snag couture’s latest It piece, a practical backpack adorned with an enormous bow. As the saying goes, I hate to see you go, but I love to watch you leave…
#2: Valentino’s message on diversity
Image: Jamie Stoker
Pierpaolo Piccioli’s formidable Valentino couture collection at the Hôtel Salomon de Rothschild was underpinned by an important sentiment on diversity, with at least half of the show’s 65 looks modelled by women of colour. “I wanted to put black women in the centre,” the designer told British Vogue. Naomi Campbell returned to the Valentino runway after 14 years, closing the show in a dramatic sheer gown, by which point many in the audience (including Céline Dion), were moved to tears.
#3: The rise of the couture swimming cap
Image: Jamie Stoker
Image: Getty
Perhaps it’s the plunging temperatures in the French capital, or the fact that we could all use a sartorial pick-me-up in January, but glittering retro-styled swimming caps are under the high fashion spotlight thanks to Chanel and Dior. Cue Italian model Vittoria Ceretti stepping into couture week’s most glamorous role of Chanel bride for SS19 in a decadently decorative cutout swimsuit. Bad hair days (and bathing goddesses) have never looked quite so good.
#4: Valentino fluttery lashes
Image: Getty
Makeup artist Pat McGrath added a showstopping touch to Valentino’s dreamlike couture presentation; enormous fluttering feather lashes. Look to models Tami Williams and Vittoria Ceretti for the social media close-ups that sent Instagram into a tailspin.
#5: Dior’s ‘Dream Parade’ circus
Image: Getty
Maria Grazia Chiuri set the dial to dazzle for her SS19 couture show. Showgoers who could remove their gaze from those twinkling boots and caps were wowed by the acrobatic ‘Dior Dream Parade’ choreographed by female-led London-based collective, Mimbre. Interpret the metaphor of the circus (as it applies to various evolving political situations) as you will.
#6: Giambattista Valli’s candy-floss gowns
Image: Jamie Stoker
When it comes to candy-floss gowns, few can surpass Giambattista Valli’s coterie of confectionary-pink dresses. His backstage model gathering delivered exactly the kind of sugar high that anyone trudging through a new year detox in thermal layers was craving.
#7: Balmain’s triumphant return to couture
Image: Gorunway
Olivier Rousteing broke Balmain couture’s 16-year hiatus with a collection that championed the elegant roots of the house. All eyes will now be on the red carpet to see who steps out in one of those cocooning pink gowns first.
#8: Viktor & Rolf’s meme dressing
Image: Gorunway
Dutch designers Viktor & Rolf aren’t afraid of inspiring a fashionable commotion. This season their meme-in-the-making gowns took party etiquette (or the lack of it) to new extremes, with slogans, including ‘Sorry I’m late I didn’t want to come’ and ‘I’m not shy I just don’t like you’, or simply ‘NO’, emblazoning sweet-as-pie dresses.
#9: Social media fatigue, the Margiela way
Image: Getty
You’re not alone in feeling overwhelmed by social media, Margiela creative director John Galliano agrees. His clever comment on the decadent consumption of modern times was translated into an intentionally frenzied, eye-popping couture collection and set. If it makes you feel a little on edge, it’s meant to.
The post The 9 biggest talking points from couture spring/summer 2019 appeared first on VOGUE India.
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Winter Must Haves
The days are shorter, and the nights, colder; and thanks to global warming the temperatures are now more extreme and unpredictable! Nothing much you can do except layer up! What does that require? Some basic elements that you can build your winter wardrobe up from. What are these essentials? Refer to the list below to […]
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Thursday, January 24, 2019
How to Naturally Boost Your Immunity
With flu season in full effect and my family and I having already been hit, I’ve been incorporating lots of natural foods that help build up immunity, in hopes of staying healthy over the next few months. The first place I always tackle is our diets, since it has the most immediate impact on overall health — not to mention changing what you eat is much more effective than the medications you’d have to take to combat illness later on!
Here are three easy ways to boost your wellness and take advantage of the seasonal abundance around us:
from Girl With Curves http://bit.ly/2DyeLoZ
Protected: 4 Indian silhouettes that will make you skip the morning fret
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from Fashion – VOGUE India http://bit.ly/2CEKAdN
Wednesday, January 23, 2019
Protected: This wedding location with fine food and a gorgeous sea view is hard to beat
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Protected: Food from India’s royal kitchens to its streets, this Delhi restaurant has it all
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from Fashion – VOGUE India http://bit.ly/2Mvv9JK
14 couture moments that went down in fashion history
While the biannual couture shows in Paris remain the most exclusive of all the fashion weeks, the schedule hasn’t been short of controversies or thrills. Here’s Vogue’s round-up of couture’s most haute drama moments.
#1: Karl Lagerfeld’s first Chanel show (Chanel Haute Couture autumn/winter 1983)
Model in Chanel at spring/summer 1999 fashion show in Paris. Image: Getty
For more than three decades, Karl Lagerfeld has presided over Chanel as creative director. In 1983, when first charged with bringing the house into the modern era, the designer admitted he initially found couture frustratingly slow (according to WWD reports). Today, Lagerfeld’s Chanel epitomises what audiences around the world love about couture, the quintessential fashion escapism; in 1983, however, his modern vision was met with more than a few raised eyebrows from critics.
#2: All that glitters is Gianni (Versace Atelier Couture autumn/winter 1995)
Gianni Versace and Kate Moss at the Versace fall/winter 1995-96 fashion show in Paris. Image: Getty
While once upon a time, couture presentations were a polite shopping expedition for well-heeled upper class women, Gianni Versace’s high-voltage shows at Atelier Versace in the 1990s were a noisy, starry affair. Audiences josselled for a front row view of the “Versace experience” and applause broke out after every shimmering look of the AW95 couture collection – a masterclass in fashion history, capturing the era’s hedonism in every twinkling rhinestone – made its way down the runway on a supermodel muse. Deservedly so. The Versace couture woman was undoubtedly flashbulb-ready, primed for Hollywood’s red carpets rather than Paris’s Bal de Débutantes.
#3: Larger than life (Christian Dior Couture spring/summer 2003)
Model in a creation designed by John Galliano for Christian Dior spring/summer 2003 in Paris. Image: Getty
When the bi-annual couture shows rolled around in the 2000s, John Galliano’s Christian Dior catwalk proved to be the epicentre of theatricality. The British designer, who took the helm at Dior in 1996, emboldened his atelier and the clothes got wild. Nowhere more so than the spring/summer 2003 couture collection: “In Galliano’s hands, the vivid colours and patterns of Chinese costume and Japanese kimonos got transformed into some of the hugest clothes ever invented,” Sarah Mower reported for American Vogue. “Models, almost completely submerged in cocooning swaths of brocade, taffeta and exploding chiffon flounces, teetered along on vertiginous platforms.”
#4: Kate Moss blooms (YSL Couture spring/summer 1993)
Kate Moss in Yves Saint Laurent at spring/summer 1993 fashion show in Paris. Image: Getty
1993 was a big year for supermodel-in-the-making, Kate Moss. The star’s first Vogue cover (for British Vogue) would hit shelves in March, by which time she’d already graced the Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture spring/summer 1993 catwalk wearing a romantic bouquet of floral prints that were nothing short of intoxicating.
#5: Chanel’s couture LBD (Chanel Couture spring/summer 1994)
Naomi Campbell in Chanel at fall/winter 1994 fashion show in Paris. Image: Rex Features
An enormous dress isn’t mandatory for a Vogue-worthy couture moment, an enormous hat is. Naomi Campbell’s Chanel Haute Couture LBD, styled with sheer gloves and oversized marabou hat was a game changer back in 1994.
#6: Thierry Mugler’s robot woman (Mugler Couture autumn/winter 1995)
Model in a creation by Thierry Mugler from his autumn/ winter 1995 collection. Image: Getty
The cyborg suit created by Thierry Mugler for his autumn/winter 1995 couture show was received as “a frightening and tantalising image for the dawn of the Internet age” by Vogue – which is no mean feat. Later that year the one-of-a-kind art piece went on to be immortalised by Helmut Newton for American Vogue’s November 1995 issue in the magazine’s cult ‘Machine Age’ fashion story.
#7: David Bowie by way of Dior (Dior Couture spring/summer 2015)
Models walk the runway for Christian Dior spring/summer 2015 fashion show in Paris. Image: Getty
Mix Raf Simons with couture and you get something edgier than an ordinary fashion romance. Mix Raf Simons with David Bowie and couture, and you get a triumphant collection of thigh-high patent boots and second-skin printed catsuits. As then Vogue critic Tim Blanks noted after the show: “[Simons] is keen to create connections for couture that wire it to the wider world.” Those boots naturally became an overnight sell-out success.
#8: Bella Hadid walking on water (Fendi couture autumn/winter 2016)
Model Bella Hadid walks the runway at Fendi’s 90th anniversary show at Fontana di Trevi on July 7, 2016 in Rome, Italy. Image: Getty
For Fendi’s ‘Legends and Fairy Tales’ 90th anniversary show, Karl Lagerfeld took inspiration from the illustrations of Danish artist Kay Nielsen in 1914 children’s book, East of the Sun and West of the Moon. Fantasy did indeed become reality: We’ll remember this as the moment models walked on water (well, a transparent catwalk staged over Rome’s Trevi Fountain).
#9: Alexander McQueen’s mythology (Givenchy Haute Couture spring/summer 1997)
Model in Givenchy at spring/summer 1997 fashion show in Paris. Image: Getty
Shortly after British designer Alexander McQueen unveiled his debut couture collection for Givenchy, he revealed feelings that the show had not lived up to his own expectations. History, on the other hand, remembers a couture debut that was a startlingly elegant and mythological play on the house codes.
#10: Birds of internet paradise (Valentino Couture autumn/winter 2018)
Kaia Gerber walks the runway for Valentino at fall/ winter 2018-2019 fashion show in Paris. Image: Getty
You’ve no doubt already seen pictures of the pink feathery Valentino couture gown that broke the internet twice in 2018. Model of the moment Kaia Gerber was the first to sport Pierpaolo Piccioli’s masterpiece during Valentino’s autumn/winter 2018 couture show, leaving even hardened fashion editors in awe (and in some cases teary-eyed). Lady Gaga’s people were quick to leap on the look, securing the gown for the A Star Is Born red carpet at the Venice Film Festival. Cue internet meltdown #2.
#11: Going dotty for Armani (Giorgio Armani Couture autumn/winter 2014)
Model in Giorgio Armani at fall/winter 2014-2015 fashion show during in Paris. Image: Getty
When Mr Armani’s atelier turn their hand to polka dots, they deliver a galaxy capable of making the Milky Way blush. No big historical backstory here, just a perfect moment of dreamlike beauty.
#12: Schiaparelli’s 1930s salons
Schiaparelli couture show from the 1930s in Schiaparelli Haute Couture Salons 21 place Vendome –Paris. Image: Schiparelli
Rome-born designer Elsa Schiaparelli’s haute couture salons during the 1930s may look like a sedate affair compared to today’s swarming shows – but her Paris base at 21 Place Vendôme is still a hallowed spot. This was the decade that Schiaparelli collaborated with Salvador Dalí to create the lobster dress – worn by Wallis Simpson in Vogue in 1937. And while to modern audiences the pairing of an artist and fashion designer is a relatively regular occurrence, back then it was groundbreaking. Greta Garbo, no less, was a fan.
#13: Renegade denim (Gaultier Couture spring/summer 1999)
Model in patchwork denim gown by Jean Paul Gaultier at spring/summer 1999 fashion show in Paris. Image: Getty
In his eponymous spring/summer 1999 couture show, French designer Jean Paul Gaultier parted ways with convention, sending a single patchwork denim gown (complete with feathered train) down his runway, a look markedly different from the other gilded pieces in the collection. Gaultier’s secret to standing out at the ball? Flout the dress code.
#14: Linda as the Chanel bride (Chanel Haute Couture autumn/winter 2003)
Canadian model Linda Evangelista in the wedding gown by Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel at autumn/winter 2003-04 collection in Paris. Image: Getty
It wouldn’t be a couture greatest hits list if we didn’t finish with a bride. Enter Linda Evangelista, the woman behind countless iconic Chanel catwalk moments, seen here closing the house’s autumn/winter 2003 couture show in true super style.
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Tuesday, January 22, 2019
How To Wear a Dress When It’s Cold Out
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What it means for India to get its own standardised apparel size
It’s likely that human beings have been conscious of their bodies ever since Eve took a bite of that apple. Fruit references, some politically correct terms, some not so politically correct terms—we are own worst enemies when it comes to describing the shape of our bodies. We may have come to accept a variety of shapes and sizes through the years, but even in the last half of the century, there was a premium on a certain body type—despite the unsurprising fact that the shape differs basis race, and fixating on one ideal was and remains absurd. Attuned to finding our way through US, UK or European sizing, Indians have grudgingly made their peace with clothes that may or may not flatter their body types, owing to a lack of alternatives. Does the average Indian woman with her wide hips find a pair of jeans in the first go? Does the thought ‘will I fit into this dress?’ stop her from even trying it on in the confines of a changing room?
The truth is that sizing gets trickier as soon as you venture out of the average body territory—whether you’re on the petite end or larger. Union Cabinet Minister of Textiles Smriti Irani recently made an announcement that would change the course of history—a statement that is not farfetched given the impact it will create: India will have its own standardised apparel size, which will be based on a survey that will be undertaken shortly. “I hereby present the central government’s resolve that ‘Size India’ project will soon be rolled out for the entire country, the first-of-its-kind project in the Indian history,” said Irani at the ‘Textile Conclave’ at the Vibrant Gujarat Global Summit. What would this mean for the Indian fashion industry?
Rajesh Pratap Singh, the thinking man’s designer, spoke about the hurdles in the enterprise. “The anthropometric study for India has always been a challenge. I was part of one in the mid ’90s, [and] there is a lot of diversity in our country. Having said that, it is something that is really required for the industry, and it will be great if we could have a standardised sizing which the country could follow.” David Abraham of Abraham & Thakore, shared his reservations on the matter. “I think it’s an excellent idea to map sizing in India, just to study the differences in each region of India, but it is rather ambitious. You have people from the North East, from Tamil Nadu, from Maharashtra, from Punjab—everybody has a different body type. I don’t think there can be a ‘standard Indian size’, because there is no such thing as a standard Indian.
Meanwhile, Amit Aggarwal, whose aesthetic is best described as futuristic, thinks the move will change the game for Indians everywhere. “With India being the leading country in the global textile industry, it is about time we have our own standardised size that is recognised globally. I think it will definitely boost our domestic and international market and put Indian consumers on the world map,” he said. Gaurav Gupta who marries avant garde construction with bridal couture said, “since the [Indian] fashion industry is now seen in the light of a proper industry, standard sizing is a welcome step. I am really impressed and grateful for this move. It will cause much less confusion not only among the consumers but the designers as well “
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Protected: Meet Jahan Loh, the artist taking street art into the galleries of Singapore
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Protected: 5 culinary experiences that have to be on your bucket list
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WHY UNDER-LAYERING IS SAVING MY BUTT THIS WINTER
Under-layering is my key to staying warm, yet still look presentable during the Winter. It took me a long time to realise this and it’s not because I am stupid, but because I really, REALLY hate having to wear tights, plus two tops underneath my blazer. It makes me feel bulky and like I can’t move properly BUT, it does make a massive difference in staying warm. I often get asked where do I get warm jackets for the Winter and the truth is, I suck at that. I don’t have many jackets that actually keep me warm because I never want to compromise style, it’s stupid of me I know, but man it’s just how my brain is wired, so instead of wearing a huge bulky and unappealing jacket, I am opting for under-layering as much as possible. Although I’ve got to confess that I wouldn’t wear this when it gets below 5 degrees and I has obviously wearing thermals, a scarf and gloves (not pictured).
Today however, we woke up to a an iced landscape and there was just no way I wasn’t gonna wear the biggest jacket I own. See, sometimes I do use my logic hahah.
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Monday, January 21, 2019
Protected: This place makes cakes straight out of Pinterest
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Watch the Dior spring/summer 2019 couture show live here
Paris Couture Week is one of the most important events on the fashion calendar. As exclusive as one can imagine, the spectacle is a treat for the undying lovers of craftsmanship—and not to mention, important for generating business for the brands. Christian Dior is one of the oldest standing members of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, and will be showcasing their spring/summer 2019 collection today, the opening day for this season’s couture lineup. What’s interesting about the date is that it coincides with what would have been the house founder’s 114th birthday—we’re certain Maria Grazia Chiuri, Dior’s artistic director, will not let this moment of serendipity go unnoticed in the show. Watch the unfolding of the Dior spring/summer 2019 show live here.
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Protected: 8 reasons why this all-natural fabric made out of trees beats polyester and cotton
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Saturday, January 19, 2019
Friday, January 18, 2019
7 of the hardest working male models this season
With the spotlight on industry changes in menswear, the shows and collections have more attention than ever, and so too, do the models. London, in particular, is a breeding ground for new faces—at streetwear brands such as Iceberg and Bobby Abley—with many of the models chalking up double-figure show appearances. Elsewhere, those landing a space in the coveted shows in Milan and Paris have a sure-fire ticket to accelerating their careers. Vogue rounds up the male models earning their miles on the runway this season thus far.
Blaise
Image: Getty
Age: 21
Nationality: French
Height: 6ft 1in / 185.5cm
Represented by: Select Model Management
Blaise fell into modelling in 2018 while studying in London, and was signed to Select agency at the end of the year. This season he has walked for Bobby Abley, Iceberg, Xander Zhou and Astrid Andersen.
Akeem Osborne
Image: Getty
Age: 19
Nationality: British
Height: 6ft 4in / 193cm
Represented by: Select Model Management
Basketball player and vlogger Akeem Osborne arrived on the scene for Riccardo Tisci’s first Burberry show in September 2018 (which included both mens- and womenswear)—the designer personally created a made-to-measure look to fit his tall, 6ft 4in, frame. Born in Birmingham, UK, Osborne is of Chinese and Jamaican descent; and has already walked at Bobby Abley, Iceberg and Bianca Saunders at London Fashion Week Men’s.
Adam Thyssen
Image: Rex
Age: 19
Nationality: Danish
Height: 6ft 2.5in / 189cm
Represented by: Milk Management
With his striking Nordic features and mod haircut, Thyssen made an impression walking for Kent & Curwen, Lou Dalton and Iceberg last season. This season he returned to the Iceberg catwalk in London, and is due to hit the runway at Givenchy in Paris next.
Finn Hayton
Image: Getty
Age: 20
Nationality: British
Height: 6ft 3in / 191cm
Represented by: Select Model Management
Bournemouth-born Hayton was scouted on London’s Oxford Street, and has since closed a Versace show and landed a place in Jacquemus’ menswear debut. This season he’s looking even busier; he’s walked four shows so far—including Moschino and Bobby Abley—with eight options on the books for Paris.
Moises Gallardo Pineda
Image: Getty
Age: 20
Nationality: Spanish
Height: 6ft 2in / 192cm
Represented by: Premier Model Management (UK)/ Mad Models (Spain)
Gallardo Pineda’s 6ft 2in frame and enviable eyebrows have landed him a number of editorial shoots, but this season he’s focusing on the catwalk, walking for John Lawrence Sullivan, Chalayan, Astrid Andersen and Cottweiler so far.
Louis Griffiths
Image: Getty
Age: 18
Nationality: British
Height: 6ft 2in / 188.5cm
Represented by: Select Model Management
Griffiths was scouted in his native London on his way to a festival in 2017. Since, he’s been compared to a young Muhammad Ali (he boxes, too), and become known for his panther-like glide on the catwalks of Versace and Burberry to name a few—plus Edward Crutchley, Bobby Abley, Iceberg and Christopher Raeburn already this season.
Keenan Gyamfi
Image: Getty
Age: 19
Nationality: British
Height: 6ft 2in / 189cm
Represented by: Premier Model Management
Self-confessed sneakerhead Gyamfi was signed to Premier after applying directly to the agency. And looks like his instinct to model was right; this season he’s walked for Qasimi, Xander Zhou, Astrid Andersen and London College of Fashion so far.
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