Couture fashion week spring/summer 2019 was an emotionally charged affair. From Valentino’s moving presentation to Margiela’s sartorial comment on social media overload, this is your rundown of the biggest talking points from Paris.
#1: Givenchy’s bow backpack
Image: Getty
Get you a bag that can do both: Givenchy creative director Clare Waight Keller is on a roll, dressing the Duchess of Sussex and legions of streetwear aficionados worldwide, who will now be eager to snag couture’s latest It piece, a practical backpack adorned with an enormous bow. As the saying goes, I hate to see you go, but I love to watch you leave…
#2: Valentino’s message on diversity
Image: Jamie Stoker
Pierpaolo Piccioli’s formidable Valentino couture collection at the Hôtel Salomon de Rothschild was underpinned by an important sentiment on diversity, with at least half of the show’s 65 looks modelled by women of colour. “I wanted to put black women in the centre,” the designer told British Vogue. Naomi Campbell returned to the Valentino runway after 14 years, closing the show in a dramatic sheer gown, by which point many in the audience (including Céline Dion), were moved to tears.
#3: The rise of the couture swimming cap
Image: Jamie Stoker
Image: Getty
Perhaps it’s the plunging temperatures in the French capital, or the fact that we could all use a sartorial pick-me-up in January, but glittering retro-styled swimming caps are under the high fashion spotlight thanks to Chanel and Dior. Cue Italian model Vittoria Ceretti stepping into couture week’s most glamorous role of Chanel bride for SS19 in a decadently decorative cutout swimsuit. Bad hair days (and bathing goddesses) have never looked quite so good.
#4: Valentino fluttery lashes
Image: Getty
Makeup artist Pat McGrath added a showstopping touch to Valentino’s dreamlike couture presentation; enormous fluttering feather lashes. Look to models Tami Williams and Vittoria Ceretti for the social media close-ups that sent Instagram into a tailspin.
#5: Dior’s ‘Dream Parade’ circus
Image: Getty
Maria Grazia Chiuri set the dial to dazzle for her SS19 couture show. Showgoers who could remove their gaze from those twinkling boots and caps were wowed by the acrobatic ‘Dior Dream Parade’ choreographed by female-led London-based collective, Mimbre. Interpret the metaphor of the circus (as it applies to various evolving political situations) as you will.
#6: Giambattista Valli’s candy-floss gowns
Image: Jamie Stoker
When it comes to candy-floss gowns, few can surpass Giambattista Valli’s coterie of confectionary-pink dresses. His backstage model gathering delivered exactly the kind of sugar high that anyone trudging through a new year detox in thermal layers was craving.
#7: Balmain’s triumphant return to couture
Image: Gorunway
Olivier Rousteing broke Balmain couture’s 16-year hiatus with a collection that championed the elegant roots of the house. All eyes will now be on the red carpet to see who steps out in one of those cocooning pink gowns first.
#8: Viktor & Rolf’s meme dressing
Image: Gorunway
Dutch designers Viktor & Rolf aren’t afraid of inspiring a fashionable commotion. This season their meme-in-the-making gowns took party etiquette (or the lack of it) to new extremes, with slogans, including ‘Sorry I’m late I didn’t want to come’ and ‘I’m not shy I just don’t like you’, or simply ‘NO’, emblazoning sweet-as-pie dresses.
#9: Social media fatigue, the Margiela way
Image: Getty
You’re not alone in feeling overwhelmed by social media, Margiela creative director John Galliano agrees. His clever comment on the decadent consumption of modern times was translated into an intentionally frenzied, eye-popping couture collection and set. If it makes you feel a little on edge, it’s meant to.
The post The 9 biggest talking points from couture spring/summer 2019 appeared first on VOGUE India.
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