Creative director Paul Surridge is reportedly leaving Roberto Cavalli

The turnover of creative directors at luxury fashion houses is par for the course—Alexander Wang’s quick stint at Balenciaga; Raf Simons’s abrupt exit from Calvin Klein—and today the industry is whirling with rumours that Paul Surridge, creative director at Roberto Cavalli, has resigned.

Appointed to helm the Florence-based luxury house in 2017, Surridge was brought on to replace Peter Dundas, who held the chief designer title from 2002 to 2005, returning for a short stint in 2015 before departing in late 2016 and founding his eponymous label Dundas. According to WWD, Surridge—if he hasn’t already resigned—is set to step down imminently following alleged conflict with the marketing and communications and design teams, with an official announcement expected to follow.

Surridge made his debut at Roberto Cavalli showing his first collection for spring/summer 2018, which was well received. Then a relatively unknown menswear designer, the unlikely successor to Dundas presented a collection clearly influenced by his background and professional training. Masculine tailoring and a muted colour palette, atypical for the extravagance and playfulness that is characteristic of Roberto Cavalli, stormed the runway, rounding out a collection that was as elegant as it was refreshing.

However surprising, Surridge’s appointment at the Italian house follows an impressive career in fashion. Hours clocked at Burberry under Christopher Bailey’s leadership from 2003 to 2007 follow experience working at Jil Sander during Raf Simons’s tenure; creative directorship at Z Zegna from 2011 to 2014; and time spent at Calvin Klein and Acne Studios.

News of Surridge exiting Roberto Cavalli follows in the wake of alleged uncertainty around the company’s future. Phillipp Plein, whose eponymous business will celebrate 20 years in 2019, is reportedly interested to absorb the brand. Bluestar Alliance, an investment firm with stakes in Tahari, Catherine Malandrino and Bebe, is also reported to have significant interest. Italian private equity fund Clessidra—who currently control Roberto Cavalli since taking over its ownership in 2015—is also rumoured to be actively cutting ties with the industry.

These abrupt changes reflect a tide of disruption sweeping the fashion industry, with the recent news of Calvin Klein 205W39NYC doing away with its runway division and shuttering Calvin Klein by Appointment in order to focus on the brand’s denim, fragrance and underwear categories.

The question of who will take on Surridge’s role is yet to be answered, yet the surprising appointment of the English Central Saint Martins graduate points to potential designer candidates outside of Italy. This follows a series of historical appointments such as British designer Clare Waight Keller at French house Givenchy and Italian designer Riccardo Tisci at English institution Burberry.

The autumn/winter 19/20 collection, shown last month at Milan Fashion Week, will be Surridge’s last.

This article originally appeared on Vogue.com.au

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