“Interspersed with a jazz evening and a rock ‘n’ roll-themed party, my two day wedding celebration in January of 1992 was far from conventional. The wedding had to be true to who I am but also have some elements of tradition that were important to our families. The functions were not the only way I parted with precedent. For the wedding ceremony, on a winter’s day at the Turf Club in Mumbai, I chose a khadi outfit. Back then, brides were still wearing Benarasi saris as most designers hadn’t forayed into bridal wear yet. It was a very different time in Indian fashion! For my wedding look, I commissioned couturiers Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla to create my look.
Image courtesy: Czaee Shah
When I told them I was finally getting married, they refused to discuss my clothes with me. They said, “Just leave it to us,” which for any bride can be quite a terrifying proposition. But given our close relationship, I knew they would be able to capture my personal aesthetic beautifully. In many ways it was a synergy—they were just starting out and mine was one of the first bridal looks they created. As a young woman, I was defining my own aesthetic and so were they. The final outfit was a surprise in many ways. Abu-Sandeep designed it using pure khadi and in their forward-thinking way it had four separates—a ghagra, a knee-length tunic, a vest and an odhni and the most meticulously embellished red borders. So many years later, I still remember the first fitting. I couldn’t believe I was wearing khadi. My mother, who had worn khadi during the Swadeshi Movement, was shocked too! It just wasn’t something typical of brides, unless they were Gandhian.
Image courtesy: Czaee Shah
Now, 27 years later when I look back at the pictures, I marvel at how it was such a distinct departure from my personal style. Yet, khadi in its natural state brought with it a sense of calm, sleekness and neutrality. The very foundation of the fabric—undyed, unbleached and so pure—has a feeling of timelessness that transcends seasonality and the endless cycle of trends.
When I look at weddings now, with brides often so uncomfortable in their finery and unable to repeat their outfits, I’m even more grateful that I took this sartorial leap of faith. I enjoyed wearing this outfit so much that I wore it again at a relative’s wedding soon after. It’s still in my wardrobe and I don’t rule out wearing it again in the near future.”
Behind the seams:
Image: Getty
The duo tell us how they reinvented the material, then and now. Talking about the past, Sandeep Khosla says, “Czaee never took after trends, and khadi at that point was associated with austerity, so we wanted to give it a fresh, luxurious spin. We added lavishly embroidered red borders and bold zardozi motifs.” Coming to the present, Abu Jani says, “We recently celebrated 100 years of khadi. We paid homage to the fabric in all its forms, highlighting its multidimensional beauty.”
As told to Neharika Manjani
Also read:
Why all eyes in the fashion industry are currently on khadi
The chikankari lehengas your summer wedding wardrobe needs right now
How to curate the perfect wedding welcome hamper for your guests
The post This bride wore a designer khadi wedding lehenga before it was a trend appeared first on VOGUE India.
from Fashion – VOGUE India http://bit.ly/2YiYn2U
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